Unveiling the Craftsmanship Behind Ayurvastra: Crafting Wellness Through Fabric

Desizing

Desizing is a process where herbs are used to release the surface tension of the fibre or fabrics. And for this we need a natural surfacant. There are numerous natural surfacant to perform this operation. The fabrics are soaked into the surfacant solution for 24hours. So, it becomes wet and also all the impurities are disturbed and ready to release from the fabrics.  We do the desizing process without using any hazardous chemicals.

Scouring

Scouring is a process where the impurities are removed. For this purpose, we need an alkaline. Nature has given a lot of alkaline (ph more than 9). In earlier days, people use wood ash. We collect waste timber woods. Mostly residues after the banana cultivation were also used. The fabric or yarn is boiled in the presence of alkaline, so the impurities are washed out and pectin is also cleared to prepare the fabrics ready for dyeing (RFD).

Selecting Shade Herbs

There are above 25 to 50 herbs which gives vibrant shades. These herbs are available in wild and can be collected after use from leaves, flowers, barks, skins, seeds, fruits, and other parts of plants. We take much care in procuring herbs. We don't use food items or live trees or any other method which will destroy the environment. Herbs may be classified into different varieties based on its shades and available colors.

Selection of Natural Mordants

Mordants is very important for fixing the shades into the fabrics. Mordants are used as a pre-mordant and also post-mordant. Pre-mordant is used before the dyeing and post-mordant is used after the dyeing. But in Ayurvastra mordant is added during the time of dyeing or at the time of making kashayam. There are abundant natural mordant are available from plants and minerals (natural alum). We have a formula or percentage of mordant to be added to make the fabrics absorb properly.

Selection of Ayurveda Herbs

All our Ayruveda textiles are dyed using live extracts by combination of the herbs focusing on general wellness. About 7 to 10 herbs are combined to make a kashayam which gives energy to the fabrics (neem leaves, aloevera, nochi, aada-doda, vasambu, thulasi, touchmenot, etc.). Ayurveda herbs are added to enhance the wellness effects for the users. Here, Ayurvastra differs from other types of natural textiles.

Preparation of Kashayam

Kashayam is the combination of live extracts of a group of herbs made for dyeing purpose. It is a one-form aqua extracts taken by boiling the water and extracts dyes, active components, and mordant properties. More than 15 herbs (for shades, mordanting and for bringing ayurveda property) are taken in a material ratio and water ratio. And boiled in a controlled environment to bring live extracts (Kashayam).

Dyeing

It is the process to fix the shades into the fabrics. Yarn or fabrics (RFD) is directly immersed into the kashayam and boiled for an specific time with a controlled temperature and water. We use only medicinally rich herbs, plants like turmeric, myrobalan, tulasi, pomegranate etc for dyeing fabric or yarn. We have aspired to achieve and retain the medicinal qualities of the herbs by immersing the plant material directly in the dye bath for the same reason.